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35mm vs. 120 for Portraits: Does the "Medium Format Look" Really Exist?

by Jens Bols 0 comments
35mm vs. 120 for Portraits: Does the "Medium Format Look" Really Exist? - OldCamsByJens

If you've spent any amount of time looking at portrait photography online, you know the exact feeling. You're scrolling through your feed, and suddenly a photo stops you dead in your tracks. The subject looks almost three-dimensional, effortlessly popping out from a background that has melted into smooth, creamy colors. The transition from in-focus to out-of-focus is unbelievably subtle. You check the caption: Mamiya RB67, or maybe a Hasselblad, shot on Portra 400 or Ilford HP5. Of course. It's that infamous medium format magic.

But when you grab your trusty 35mm SLR, load up the exact same film stock, and shoot a portrait of your friend, it just doesn't look the same. It's gritty, the background doesn't fall off quite as drastically, and the subject doesn't have that distinct, pop-off-the-page feeling.

This brings up one of the most hotly debated questions in film photography: does the "medium format look" actually exist, or is it just elitist hype? And more importantly, do you actually need to shoot 120 film to take a gorgeous portrait?

The Physics Behind the Magic

Okay, let's get the nerdy stuff out of the way first. When photographers talk about the medium format look, they aren't just talking about a vague artistic vibe. There is actual physics driving why a 6x7 negative looks wildly different from a standard 35mm negative.

It comes down to the relationship between the physical size of the film, the focal length of the lens, and your distance from the subject. Let's say you are shooting a classic 35mm setup with a 50mm lens. To get a nice head-and-shoulders portrait, you stand maybe four or five feet away from your subject. The same framing on a 6x6 medium format camera requires an 80mm lens.

Here is where the magic happens: a 50mm lens on a 35mm camera and an 80mm lens on a 6x6 camera give you roughly the same field of view. But an 80mm lens is still mechanically an 80mm lens. It inherently has a shallower depth of field and compresses the background more than a 50mm lens does. So, you get the comfortable, distortion-free framing of a normal field of view, paired with the intense background blur and compression typically reserved for telephoto lenses on 35mm cameras.

That is the core of the medium format look. You aren't just imagining things. By forcing you to use longer focal lengths to achieve standard framing, larger film formats naturally generate cleaner subject separation.

Smooth Tones and Vanishing Grain

Besides depth of field, there is the sheer size of the negative to consider. A standard 6x7 medium format negative is over four times larger than a 35mm frame. When you take a portrait on 120 film, you are capturing an immense amount of detail and light data.

When you scan both a 35mm negative and a medium format negative and view them at the exact same size on your screen or printed on a wall, the 35mm frame has to be enlarged significantly more. This blows up the film grain, which can pool in the shadows and make the transitions between highlights and shadows feel a bit more abrupt.

On 120 film, the negative barely has to be enlarged at all for standard viewing. The grain structure is incredibly fine, almost invisible depending on the film stock you use. The way the light rolls off a person's cheekbone into shadow on medium format is buttery smooth. It's incredibly flattering for skin tones, making your subjects look elegant and timeless without feeling over-sharpened or synthetic.

The Intimacy of 35mm Portraits

So, considering all that, you might be thinking it's time to throw your 35mm camera in the trash and remortgage your house for a medium format setup. Don't do that. While larger film formats have distinct technical advantages, 35mm has an entirely different kind of magic that is arguably just as powerful for portraiture.

Medium format cameras are big. They are heavy, clunky, and slow. If you are shooting a waist-level finder on a twin-lens reflex (TLR) or a giant studio SLR, the frame is reversed left-to-right. Simply framing and focusing takes time and concentration. This slows you down, which is great for deliberate, posed art. But it completely changes the dynamic between you and your subject.

When you point a massive chunk of metal and glass at someone, they freeze. They pose. They give you their "camera face."

A 35mm camera, on the other hand, is an extension of your eye. It's fast, reactionary, and intimate. You can keep up with a friend laughing, capture the exact moment the wind blows their hair across their face, or catch a micro-expression that vanishes in half a second. A portrait isn't just about smooth backgrounds; it's about capturing a piece of someone's soul. Sometimes, the gritty, grainy, fast-paced nature of 35mm is exactly what you need to break down the barrier between the lens and the subject.

Plus, let's talk about cost. Shooting a roll of 36 exposures means you can experiment. You can try a weird angle, ask your subject to move around, or bracket your exposures without doing mental math about how many dollars you just spent on a single click. Medium format only gives you 10 to 15 shots per roll. The pressure to make every single shot perfect can sometimes squash the spontaneous joy of taking pictures.

Faking the Look on 35mm

If you love the convenience of 35mm but desperately want that creamy, deeply separated look, you don't necessarily have to jump to 120. You just need to invest in glass.

To mimic the background compression and shallow depth of field of medium format, leave your 50mm and 35mm lenses at home. Try stepping back and using a fast short-telephoto lens, like an 85mm f/1.8 or a 105mm f/2.5. By using a longer focal length and shooting wide open, you compress the background and totally isolate your subject, simulating that highly sought-after 3D pop while still enjoying the speed of a smaller camera.

The Final Verdict

Does the medium format look really exist? Yes. It absolutely does. You can't cheat physics, and the unparalleled smoothness, tonal range, and shallow depth of field provided by a massive negative are distinct and gorgeous.

But does that mean it's the only way to shoot a good portrait? Not even close. Some of the most iconic, emotionally resonant portraits in history were captured on gritty 35mm film. The best format for portraits isn't the one with the biggest negative; it's the one that helps you connect with your subject and tell their story the way you want it told.

If you're ready to see what the hype is all about, picking up a larger format camera will definitely change how you shoot. You can browse some amazing medium format setups by searching for a Mamiya camera or checking out other heavy hitters in the shop. On the flip side, if you want to push your 35mm kit to its portrait limits, try upgrading your glass. A fast prime can change everything, so look around for a reliable 50mm f1.4 lens to get those backgrounds melting perfectly on your next weekend shoot.

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