85mm vs. 135mm: Figuring Out the Best Telephoto Lens for Portraits
When I first started getting serious about shooting portraits on film, I was practically glued to my 50mm lens. It is the classic starting point for a reason. But after a few months of putting the camera uncomfortably close to people's faces to get headshots, I realized I needed a longer focal length. I wanted that gorgeous, creamy background blur and a more flattering perspective. That is when you inevitably hit the great telephoto crossroads: do you invest in an 85mm or a 135mm lens?
Both of these focal lengths are legendary in the portrait photography world. Ask ten different photographers which one is better, and you will get ten different, slightly heated answers. Having shot extensively with vintage versions of both, I can tell you that neither is objectively better, but they definitely offer completely different vibes, challenges, and price tags. Let's break down the differences so you can figure out what deserves a spot in your camera bag.
The 85mm: The King of Connection
The 85mm is arguably the most perfectly balanced portrait lens ever designed. When you mount an 85mm onto your camera, the first thing you notice is the working distance. It is just right. You take a few steps back from your subject to frame a gorgeous half-body shot, but you are still close enough to hold a normal conversation. You don't have to shout directions, and you maintain a real, human connection with the person you are photographing.
Visually, an 85mm does a fantastic job of isolating your subject without completely erasing their environment. If you shoot at a wider aperture like f/1.8 or f/2, the background melts away into a soft blur, but you can still completely understand the context of where you are. A busy city street still looks like a city street, just wonderfully out of focus.
It is also incredibly versatile. You can actually use an 85mm indoors. If you are shooting in a decently sized living room, a cafe, or a small home studio, you can physically back up enough to get the shot. Try doing that with a longer focal length, and you will find yourself backed flat against a wall, realizing you only have enough room to photograph your subject's nose.
The 135mm: The Background Melter
If the 85mm is conversational, the 135mm is dramatic. This lens is a pure, unadulterated background melter. Because it is a longer telephoto lens, you get to play with a phenomenon called lens compression. Essentially, a 135mm seems to pull the background much closer to your subject while simultaneously flattening their facial features in an incredibly flattering way.
With a 135mm, you can take a chaotic, distracting background like a busy park or a messy parking lot and turn it into a smooth, abstract wash of color. The separation between the subject and the background is intense. If you want that high-end fashion or cinematic isolation look, this focal length delivers it in spades.
But there is a catch: the working distance. To get a full-body or even half-body shot with a 135mm, you have to stand quite far away from your subject. You lose that quiet intimacy. "Move your left shoulder down!" you will end up yelling across the sidewalk. It makes directing a bit more difficult, and shooting indoors is pretty much impossible unless you are working in an airplane hangar.
Nailing Manual Focus on Telephoto Lenses
If you are shooting on a vintage film camera or adapting old manual focus lenses to your digital setup, focusing is something you need to heavily consider. The longer the focal length and the wider the aperture, the thinner your plane of focus becomes.
Focusing an 85mm manually is definitely harder than focusing a 35mm or 50mm, but it is entirely manageable with a little practice and a good split-prism focusing screen. A 135mm, however, demands absolute precision. If you are shooting a vintage 135m f/2.8 wide open, the depth of field is razor thin. Sometimes, focusing on your subject's eye means the tip of their nose and their ears are already falling out of focus. It requires a lot of patience, and a slight lean forward or backward by either you or your subject can ruin the shot.
The Vintage Market Reality: Availability and Price
This is where the debate stops being about just art and starts being about budget. If you are shopping for vintage glass from the 70s and 80s from brands like Canon, Nikon, Pentax, or Minolta, the market for these two focal lengths is completely different.
An 85mm lens has always been a specialty portrait item. Manufacturers made fewer of them, and because they are so popular today, a vintage 85mm f/1.8 or f/2 can easily cost you a few hundred dollars. They are highly sought after, and the good copies sell fast.
On the flip side, the 135mm was the standard "kit telephoto" for decades. Almost everyone who bought an SLR back in the day eventually picked up a 135mm f/2.8 or f/3.5. Because millions were manufactured, the world is absolutely swimming in vintage 135mm lenses today. You can often find beautifully built, incredibly sharp 135mm lenses for a fraction of the cost of an 85mm. If you are strapped for cash and want amazing portraits, the 135mm is the ultimate budget hack.
Which One Should You Choose?
Deciding between these two comes down to how and where you shoot.
- Choose the 85mm if: You want a versatile, everyday portrait lens. You shoot a mix of indoor and outdoor portraits, you prefer to stay close to your subjects, and you like leaving a little bit of environmental context in your blurred backgrounds.
- Choose the 135mm if: You shoot almost exclusively outdoors, you love completely obliterating distracting backgrounds, you want maximum facial compression, or you want to save money by picking up absolute bargains on the vintage market.
Personally, my 85mm lives on my camera almost permanently for lifestyle portraits, but whenever I want pure, cinematic background separation in an outdoor setting, the 135mm comes out of the bag.
Ready to upgrade your portrait game? We test and restore a ton of fantastic vintage glass. You can check out our available 85mm lenses to find that perfect, versatile portrait focal length. Or, if you want incredible background melt without breaking the bank, browse our collection of 135mm lenses and find the perfect vintage match for your camera system.